Kasuri (cloth with splashed patterns) (絣)
Kasuri refers to weaved patterns, some of which look as if they were 'scratched,' or refers to a fabric that has such patterns. Origasuri refers to the fabric which has weaved kasuri patterns, while somegasuri refers to the fabric which has dyed kasuri patterns. Kasuri patterns are mainly weaved in cotton fabrics, but they are weaved in silk fabrics or linen fabrics as well.
History
It is believed that the technology of Kasuri (origasuri) were developed in India. After it was spread in the Southeast Asia including Kingdom of Thailand, Cambodia, where silk Kasuri was generated, Indonesia, and Vietnam, it was brought to Japan via The Ryukyu Kingdom. Around 1800, Den INOUE of the Kurume Domain invented the method to weave cracked patterns (加寿利) while the monopoly system as a fiscal measure in each domain was adopted. Later, it was encouraged to be manufactured as Kurume Kasuri. In Iyo, Kana KAGIYA developed Iyo Kasuri on her own. In the latter half of the Edo period, various Kasuri were manufactured in large volume in each area.
From the Meiji period through until 1960's, Kasuri was loved as a fabric for casual wafuku (Japanese traditional clothes). In the area where Kasuri was manufactured, a large number of textile manufacturers lined up, and several million rolls of fabric were manufactured. During the World War II, as women were not allowed to wear Kimono, Kimono was remade into monpe (women's work pants) to be worn. However, afterward, the Japanese clothes were westernized at high speed. Since it became rare to wear wafuku as a casual wear, it came to be manufactured in small quantities because of reduced demand.
Current status
Kasuri is still weaved in many parts of Japan even today, and it is used for clothes, ties, bags, ornaments such as wall hangings, and for small items. However, there is no growth in demand for Kasuri, which is expensive due to extra time and efforts that are required for manufacturing, while Kasuri was not treated as a luxury item as it used to be the material of casual wear. In any case, Kasuri products are manufactured by few textile manufacturers.
Three major Kasuri in Japan
Iyo Kasuri (Matsuyama Kasuri)
Kurume Kasuri
Bingo Kasuri
*Regarding these Kasuri, about two to three million rolls were yearly manufactured at the peak, and any of Kasuri mentioned above is manufactured in small quantity today.
Famous local Kasuri
Isesaki Kasuri (Isesaki Meisen)
Sassa Kasuri
Satsuma Kasuri
Musashi Kasuri (Murayama Kasuri, Tokorozawa Kasuri)
Ryukyu Kasuri
Yamato Kasuri
Kurayoshi Kasuri
Yumihama Kasuri
Hirose Kasuri
Kurayoshi Kasuri, Yumihama Kasuri, Hirose Kasuri are called the three pictorial Kasuri (or called the three major Kasuri) of Sanin region.
Sakushu Kasuri
Tokamachi Kasuri